Hi folks,
I've been messing around with a Wacom tablet a little bit for 2D animation in Digicel Flipbook and the program is excellent.
However, I've decided I'd like to try switching to drawing on paper and need to get a lightbox. I think it's the only way I can draw totally naturally.
In Australia these seem to be very scarce. We only seem to have ones intended for scrapbooking purposes (plastic) or photographic uses (non-slanted) that I've been able to find around Sydney thus far.
I know some sites like Cartoon Colour Company have good ones for around $89.95 - $129.95 USD but the shipping to Australia is an absolute killer.
I want to know if I was to purchase this one;
http://www.madisonartshop.com/arlitr.html
Could I then just buy a plastic pegbar and attatch it easily to save costs? Do I really need an acme bar & punch? Does rigging up a pegbar with 1/4 inch dowel and office punches actually work ok?
I ask about this particular one because it's sold in Australia commonly, though here it costs $129.95 AUD :( Still, much cheaper than importing something.
I just need some opinions, ie is the size ok on the light tracer? Are they bright enough etc.
Should I buy the lightbox here, import the proper pegbars & acme punches?
Or should I just cop the shipping and and buy a quality pre assembled one for animation?
I did want to do this cheaply but if the difference is enough I will spend what it takes.
Sorry for so many qusetions at once but I'm keen!
Thanks in advance!
Expensive for ring binder punchers? You can pick one up at Office Max for $10. Or even better pick up a ream of prepunched 8 1/2 x 11 and save yourself some time and effort. I'm sure they have similar packages of prepunched paper in Australia office supply stores, and I imagine that a 3 hole puncher isn't too expensive.
Working on a pegged board will save you a lot of time and headaches. I've tried the alignment method (crosshairs and other registration marks) and it was just too cumbersome trying to keep those pages lined up, only to find that it had slipped at some point in the middle of drawing.
Producing solidily ok animation since 2001.
www.galaxy12.com
Now with more doodling!
www.galaxy12.com/latenight
Thanks folks, those answers are all of great help.
I've decided to definately get the Artograph Light Tracer 10x12 for $129 AUD (saw it today in two other stores for a hefty $185-199 AUD!).
Of course I will be adding my own pegbar. Will probably need an extra one for scanning, even though I think digicel flipbook is meant to be good at registering images - I'm yet to try that method.
In Australia we most commonly have 2 hole punches, I will look into if and how much a 3 hole punch is available for here. That way I can order order some proper pegbars from the US if the holes match up. Gotta be careful with these things as I think whilst we use A4 office paper here you guys use "letterhead" or something right? So need to make sure they will go well together.
Otherwise, I have no problem making my own pegbars for our standard 2 hole punches.
Either way I'll let you know how it all goes!
Thanks again and keep anymore ideas/comments flowing here.
Two holes would work just fine. 3 hole is standard in the US and why I mentioned it.
Personally, if I were making my own, I'd get the cheapest light box I could find and drill the holes myself. It may be completely adequate for your needs. If not, you have a spare box, and you aren't out a ton of money.
Producing solidily ok animation since 2001.
www.galaxy12.com
Now with more doodling!
www.galaxy12.com/latenight
I'd recommend making your own pegbar out of some plex or wood dowels and taping it onto the lightbox. That way you can make a few mistakes without ruining the lightbox's surface, and if you ever need a straight lightbox, just untape the pegs and you're all set.
Get some thin flat stock for the bar and some pegs that are the same diameter as the holes your punch makes. Punch holes in some heavy paper or cardstock and use this as a template to set up your pegs.
Also, you don't need to use all three holes in a 3-hole punch configuration. The outside two will do just fine, and sometimes the third hole creates problems. Just punch your holes as far apart as possible; it creates more reliable registration.
I've made several inexpensive lightboxes. All using a standard three hole punch setup (saved a fortune on paper). The alignment isn't quite as precise as an acme/oxberry punch, but for my purposes, it worked just fine. Especially since I do my clean up work in the computer.
Recently I picked up an inexpensive ($30) craft lightbox that is working fine as a lightbox after drilling holes and using office paper. I've also made a larger one using a sheet of opal plexiglass with the same setup. That worked very well, too.
They may not be as good as the professional ones, but they will work (and a 3 hole punch or pre-punched paper is a LOT cheaper than the professional ones).
Producing solidily ok animation since 2001.
www.galaxy12.com
Now with more doodling!
www.galaxy12.com/latenight